Scarves are my go to hair accessories, they are great for those bad hair days or when you want a easy updo. Here are some of my favourites.

By Rumbie of http://www.everythingamum.com

Those of you who regularly read BGLH (and if you don’t, you really really really should), will be familiar with Cipriana of UrbanBushBabes. She has AWESOME hair and regularly contributes to BGLH. While a healthy hair care regimen, good products and gentle handling are important, a balanced and proper diet also goes a long way toward ensuring overall health and well-being and by extension – healthy hair too.

Shea Butter is not only great at sealing in moisture and keeping hair soft. It’s also a very effective aid to styling. It helps to hold manipulated styles such as twist outs, bantu knot outs and braid outs in place.

Shea butter helps to create definition like this bantu knot out.

You can either make a Shea Butter mix with oils and apply that on damp hair or add some gel for extra hold.  Here are some great recipes for you to try; the Shea Butter should be at room temperature or can be put out in the sun to melt slightly, you can then use a kitchen blender to mix all the ingredients together.:

Fragrant Shea

1 cup Shea Butter

1/4 cup Coconut Oil

1/4 cup Marula Oil

1/2 teaspoon Vitamin E oil

10 drops essential oil of your choice (I like to use Geranium, Lavender, Sweet Orange or Ylang Ylang)

The Coconut Oil helps to provide shine and Marula is great for holding styles in place.

Shea Aloe Butter

1/2 Cup Shea Butter

1/4 cup Oil of your choice (Avocado, Olive Oil, Grapeseed Oil and Sweet Almond Oil are popular examples)

1/4 cup Aloe Vera Gel

The type of oil you choose will be dependent on your particular hair type. If you are prone to product build up you might pick lighter oils like Grapeseed or Jojoba. The Aloe Vera Gel helps to provide that extra hold, it’s also a great conditioner.

Shea -Flaxseed Styling Pudding

Flaxseed also known as Linseed can be used to make an alternative to commercial gels which can be quite drying as many of them contain alcohol. As with a lot of homemade recipes it’s also very cost-effective. Flaxseed is available in most major supermarkets.

Make your own flaxseed gel.

To make the flaxseed gel you will need:

1 cup Flaxseed

4 cups water

Add the water and flaxseed to a pot and boil for about 5 minutes mixing continuously. Once you achieve the desired consistency separate the gel from the seeds using a sieve or stocking cap. Let the gel cool down and its ready to use. You can also add a few drops of essential oil and some vitamin E. This mixture will go off quite quickly so if you don’t have a preservative make only a small amount and keep it in the fridge. The gel can be used on its own but to keep your hair soft you can add it to Shea Butter.

To make the Flaxseed Shea you’ll need:

1/2 cup Shea Butter

2 tbsp oil of your choice

2 tbsp flax-seed gel

Apply the styling pudding to damp hair for maximum hold while twisting or braiding then unravel when completely dry.

This look was achieved by setting damp hair with a mixture of shea butter and flax-seed gel then using Curlformers.

On Saturday 29th March, exactly two months after we first met the girls, Mwanabibi and I returned to Kasisi to find out how the girls were doing.

Masuka and the Girls

Mwanabibi and the Girls

The 2014 Kasisi Girls

We met in the school’s library

We asked questions, gave some tips and generally caught up with what was happening

The diversity of natural hair is amazing. Everyone had a different experience with the same products

The main issues reported were getting to grips with the regimen, others finishing their products, the smell of the apple cider vinegar and scalp and dandruff issues.

So many of the girls testified that one of ghe first questions their mums asked was “What has happened to your hair?” This is because the positive change was so obvious

We have already proposed a date for term two. We are just waiting for the school to confirm. Grade 12s have asked that it be as early as possible, so it will definitely be in the month of May.

The Kasisi Project is probably the most exciting event I have planned since the ZedHair Natural Hair Show in April 2013. And judging from the reaction of basically everyone, Kasisi seems to have captured the imagination and interest of a lot of people. I started this blog to document my natural hair journey and share what I learned along the way with others, while contextualising it for our African context. Over the years, I have had many wonderful conversations with naturals about their hair. One of the recurring themes when people share their natural hair story is that they wished they had learned how to take care of their hair when they were younger. Obviously you cannot turn back time, but this whole Kasisi initiative is about changing the narrative for at least some young women.

Masuka & Mwanabibi after a long exhausting day that was ultimately rewarding and satisfying.
Oh and the humidity and rain caused our hair to frizz and poof up, not that we noticed. Lol

Once Mwanabibi and joined forces to begin holding the natural hair workshops in July 2013, we wanted to have a high school workshop. The plan was to do it in December 2013 and have it last the whole day. We would approach sponsors to buy all the products for every girl in attendance. We would make it a girl’s empowerment seminar as well as natural hair education event. however, life happened and I was working in a rural area and Mwanabibi was travelling, so we were unable to organise the event as it would have taken months to arrange. We ended up having the natural hair dinner party instead as it didn’t require much effort to organise.

The Natural Hair Starter Pack
x1 Tresemme Naturals Conditioner; x1 Organic Honey; x1 Spritz Bottle; x1 Satin Scarf; x1 Notebook & Pen; x1 Mixing Bowl & Spatula; x1 Coconut Oil; x1 Apple Cider Vinegar. Plus Tea Tree Essential Oil and Grapeseed Oil to share between 6 girls

But the desire to impact the next generation didn’t go away. Instead of having a workshop in the next school holiday, we came up with something better. Why not mentor a group of girls and follow them along their natural hair journey? A boarding school was ideal because it is a controlled environment. A government or Catholic school where only natural hair is allowed would ensure tat we had a captive audience. We wanted to speak with Grade 8 students because that was their first year in boarding school. The idea was to impart knowledge and skills while they were still young so that they would have grow to love their hair over the years and be comfortable caring for and styling it. This way, we would reduce on the number of those girls who rush to relax their hair the day they write their final Grade 12 exam. For the same reason we also wanted to speak to Grade 12 students so that they would have one year to learn healthier ways to manage their hair and so relaxing their hair would not be because they didn’t know how to take care of their natural hair or because they didn’t think it was stylish or fashionable. All of this meant that we had to speak to the girls toward the beginning of the first term. We also needed a school that was close enough to Lusaka that we could travel to support them on a semi-regular basis. Kasisi was the first and only school on our shortlist.

The young ladies were very receptive and hungry for information and knowledge. Can’t wait for Term 2

The plan was that we would buy products for 20 girls. We thought through what is the best regimen for high school that is simple enough to carry to boarding school and also affordable and not complicated. We came up with a co-washing regimen that used Apple Cider Vinegar for clarifying and honey for deep conditioning. We were also going to give them a notebook to keep a hair diary. In the end, the school suggested we speak to the whole school so we increased the number of starter packs to 30 and came up with a natural hair quiz to help identify who would get the starter packs and join the mentorship programme.

Getting ready to answer the natural hair quiz questions

Once we announced the project, donations started coming in. We basically bought out the city of Lusaka’s entire supply of Tresemme Naturals Conditioner. I drove to every single Pick n Pay supermarket in the city and bought them all, but they were still not enough. Some even had to come from Ndola (a 3 hour drive away). There was a shortage of Apple Cider Vinegar too. Coconut oil was also elusive. But no product more so than shea butter which was out of stock with every single supplier. In the end, we collected donations of shea butter from well wishers and gave each girl a sample in a lip balm size tub. We are still waiting for a consignment of shea butter from Ghana so that we take them the full supply. At this rate term one will be over. Fortunately, they have coconut oil to tide them over.

We were privileged to speak with the whole school — over 200 students

So on the morning of Saturday 25th January we bundled into several vehicles and started off for Kasisi. This was after running around like headless chickens doing last minute photocopies to create the handouts and ensure each folder had all the correct information, including deep conditioning and spritz recipes.

We began the afternoon buy giving a general talk on natural hair care, debunking myths and misconceptions with science and evidence informed facts. Then we had a quiz to test the understanding. The last question on the quiz sheet was, “How do you feel about your natural hair”? This was the clincher that would enable us determine who of the 200 students would get one of the 30 natural hair starter packs.

Apart from, hair, careers etc, we also shared the Word

After collecting the quiz answer sheets, our other speakers took the stage. First up was Phoebe who shared the Gospel, reminding the us all of Christ’s question, “What does it profit a man if he gain the world but lose his own soul?” Then Chilungu, a former Kasisi student encouraged the girls to keep focused and do their school proud. After that, Chola spoke to the girls about the importance of setting goals in life. Sampa, a 6th year medical student, shared how when she was in Grade 12, a young doctor came to her school and gave a talk that inspired her to go to medical school and one day become a doctor too. This is what she shared with us when she sent us an email saying she wanted to come and speak because she had a personal experience that it has an impact. Imagine Sampa’s surprise when getting out of one car at Kasisi to find the other speaker was Dr Maria Akani — the very same doctor who had come to her school so many years ago. This was a touching and inspiring moment for all of us and especially for Maria and Sampa. It underscored why investing in young people is so important. None of us should underestimate the impact of what we say to the next generation. #SoWorthIt!

The Natural Hair Starter packs waiting to be distributed

While the speakers were on stage, our other volunteers were marking the quiz answer sheets and placing them in yes or no piles. Those who got all the answers correct were then scrutinised based on their answers to the last question, “How do you feel about your natural hair”? It was difficult to choose and obviously, it was subjective. We tried to strike a balance between those that loved their natural hair, those that hated it and those who just wanted to know more about it.

Handing out the information folder and starter packs to the winning students

“It’s not growing to my expectations but I still like it. I don’t think I want to cut it” — RBS

“Very bad because it does not grow, has got dandruff, split ends and it is very hard to take care of, does not make me feel pretty at all. Sometimes I feel like cutting it off” — RS

“I feel great about it. I love it natural as it is. I love it natural so much the thought of perming has never occurred” — TN

Giving a pep talk to the lucky 30

“Its embarrassing and is difficult to maintain” — S

“My hair is nice and needs protection. My hair is even better than whites hair and I appreciate it because it is thick” — OS

“That is is very bad and I would want it to grow. It is very hard to maintain it so I normally braid it, it’s not nice, I don’t like it” — LC

“My hair in my opinion is very short, shaggy and very dandruffy. My hair is hard to maintain and gets dirty very easily. Simply put I hate my hair” — MS

The ZedHair team with students from Kasisi Girls Secondary School
The lucky 30 are in the front row

“My hair is short, dry and hard. I don’t feel so confident about my hair, I don’t feel so beautiful about it, my hair doesn’t make me feel great anymore” — LNM

“I’m not too proud about it. Its hard to maintain but if I got that package maybe I can take good care of it” — TC

“I feel that it is so hard and unbearable. I feel like cutting it off it’s so dry” — PP

And lastly, my two personal favourites:

“Sometimes my hair is just too hard to manage. At times its really easy to work with, but hey its part of being an African Queen” — PD

“My hair is an accessory and a God given fashion statement. I love it, simply put” — EM

One last word to the girls about next steps

Thank you so much to everyone that supported this first phase of the Kasisi Project. When you are passionate about something and set out to just do it, it is humbling when others buy into your vision and sacrifice to support it too. We did not have to ask anyone for contributions, they just started calling, texting, inboxing and emailing from all over Zambia and the world. We received cash donations as well as in-kind contributions. People gave from what they had. The shortage of shea butter and Tresemme Naturals was lessened due to donations from people’s cupboards. One lady even called from the plane as it was about to take off to ensure we would send someone to collect the Tresemme she had left on her dressing table. Everyone who we approached to speak said, “yes, yes, yes”. Others said they would come along for moral support. I know that others remembered us in prayer. In short, the response was overwhelming. We are also really grateful to the school management and administration at Kasisi Girls Secondary School for allowing us to come and speak with their students. Last but not least, thank you to Hudson Chirwa who came to photograph the event for us.

The ZedHair Team that went to support the outreach event

What next for Kasisi?

Term One is done and dusted. We are now preparing for Term Two (sometime in May) and after that Term Three (in September). In terms of support, we need contributions to purchase the products for each girl. We also need speakers who are willing to take time out to come and share some words of wisdom with the girls.

What about other schools?

The August natural hair workshop will be for high school students and will be held in Lusaka. This way we are not focusing on one school only, but the opportunity is open to anyone to attend, so long as they are in high school and buy a ticket. We will try to hold the workshops as often as we can during school holidays.

Where in Africa are you from?

 Zambia, born and bred

Where are you currently based?

I’m currently based in Canada

When did you decide to go natural?

I decided to go natural in 2012. For some reason my hair in the back would break off every time I relaxed my hair. I tried so many things to get to grow from kids relaxer to prolonging my retouches, it would thrive then but once I relaxed it would break off. So initially, I was planning to relax the rest of my head and let the back be natural just so I could wear weaves. Then some natural friends convinced to go natural  and so I transitioned for about 3 months then big chopped in Dec 2012. My BC was actually unplanned; I was in Zambia for Christmas and was  getting my hair braided into masai braids. I went to get my hair washed and blow dried in preparation for that, I guess the lady at the salon couldn’t bear my two textures so she asked if she could cut off my relaxed ends and I told her to go ahead. It’s only after I went natural that I realized that my hair in the back has a finer texture hence the relaxer drama.

What has been your experience having natural hair so far?

My experience has been great. I’m learning so much about my hair. I had my hair relaxed when I was probably 7 or 8 years old, it was relaxed up until I went to high school. I was natural in high school but I always had my hair blown out bone straight (overblown) then of course as soon as I was done grade 12 I relaxed it. As such, I had never really known or dealt with my natural hair until now. So it’s been great just getting to know what my texture is, what makes it thrive and such. I have had those days where I’m stuck and I don’t know what to do about my hair but knowing how to braid my own hair has really helped me through this journey so far. Also it has helped a lot that most of my friends are natural so I didn’t get any negative backlash for going natural.

What is your hair regimen?

 I wash and deep condition at least bi-weekly, even when I have a long term protective style. I do a protein treatment before I wash my hair using mayonnaise, Tresemme Naturals condition, olive oil and coconut oil mixed together (leave it in for 30 mins to an hour).To wash I use black soap or I cowash. I follow it up with a moisture treatment using Tresemme naturals, glycerine, olive oil, coconut and an off the shelf moisture treatment. I then use the LOC method to moisturize and seal. Leave in conditioner, Shea butter and olive oil. I have very dry hair so I moisturize a lot, I use a spritz (mixture of water and glycerine) and spritz/mist my hair on a as per needed basis whenever I think my hair feels dry. I make sure to section my hair when washing it helps with detangling. To style, I usually do low manipulation hairstyles, short term protective styles such as mini twists with my own hair, goddess braids and long term protective styles and I avoid using heat on my hair.

How did you achieve the hairstyle in these pictures?

Braid and curl- This was done on freshly washed hair…I braided the hair then curled the ends using sponge rollers. I let my hair dry overnight, next day I unbraided the hair unravelled and fluffed.

I made one cornrow in the back (coming from back to front), using sponge rollers on dry stretched hair for the front which I went to bed with unravelled in the morning.

Any future plans/dreams for your hair? 

No plans really just striving to continue with good hair practices. My goal is simply healthy hair.

Any advice to those considering going natural?

 The preconception we have all been engrained with is that natural hair is difficult to manage. I have found that once you get a hang of the techniques that work for your hair natural hair isn’t difficult to manage at all. For me moisturized hair is happy hair I have found what works for me and I have stuck with it. Going natural has been the best decision I have made for my hair so far.  The more I learn to manage it the more I love it. I just feel so comfortable wearing my own hair now; I just had my graduation portraits taken rocking my natural hair! Natural hair is fun; it’s so versatile!  I lovetrying out new styles. I find I can do more with natural hair than relaxed hair. So if you are considering going natural, do it! There are so platforms out there to get natural hair advice like Zedhair, Zedian Naturals,

Youtube, Pinterest and natural hair products are readily available now.

Guest Post by Chiteu a contributor to ZedHair and blogger at Coils and Strands

No I don’t mean gelling it back to keep it in place. The edge control being referred to is something we are all afraid of, have probably laughed at *insert Naomi Campbell photo* , heard the stories of dabbing black polish to create the illusion of hair and done a double take in the mirror just to make sure ours is still in place.

I was asked about this about a month ago and wasn’t really sure how to approach the topic because honestly I have not had first hand experience with this,the closest I’ve come is probably the Masai braids I had done for the wedding * I was horrified and took them down after 3 weeks*

After much thought I figured the best way to approach the subject is to share how I have managed to keep my edges intact all these years. Next to the ends of your hair your edges are probably the next most fragile part of your hair and should come with a “handle with care” label.

My number one rule for protecting my edges even when my hair is not in a protective style is to make sure I don’t pull my hair back too tight. I know we all want hair that’s neat and in place all the time but the beauty of natural hair is that you will not always have this luxury *especially if like me you don’t use heat* Pulling your puffs too tight or brushing them down leaves your edges prone to breaking and being yanked out from the root. When using accessories like hair bands check the fabric, cotton will soak away moisture and be abrasive to your edges which will cause them to snap. Try to avoid pushing your hair back with hair bands too often, that includes the scarves and headwraps that are all the rave right now. When you wrap your hair at night  make sure your satin scarf is not too tight and rather tie the loose ends at the back of your head as opposed to the front which will put more strain on your edges.

When I am in a protective style like braids I make sure the braider does not pick every last hair up in order to have a “neat” style. I am careful to let them know that the partings at the front should be larger so the braid is not hanging on 3 pieces of hair. Some people will completely leave their edges out and not have them braided at all and simply slick them back/down with gel. This is may be a better option if your edges are already thinning and very weak.

Once my braids are installed I usually stick to loose styles. Anything that requires pulling and tugging to get the style in place are a big no no for me. Currently people are doing amazing things with braids and adding a lot of versatility to once boring hairstyles with all kinds of twists,loops,pull backs and high buns. These styles bring pizzazz to braids but have the potential to do a lot of damage to your hairline. I am experimenting but approaching these with caution as I love my edges waaaaaaay too much!!! Be VERY gentle as you try these styles out.

A lot of naturals, especially those in the in between stage will braid and braid and braid their hair in a bid to grow it. While this is not a bad thing if done correctly it’s really important to let your hair and edges rest in between styles. If you take down your braids (I suggest you keep them  in for no longer than 6 weeks at a time) and must redo them, give your hair at least a week’s break and do a deep condition to strengthen your hair before braiding again.

Weaves are the quickest protective style around, a few hours in the chair and voila you have a whole new look and your ends are neatly tucked away to do some growing. This is however the style that will most likely damage your hairline even more than braids. The fact that your hair is tightly braided then pulled on as the weave is sewn in can wreak havoc for your hairline. The constant brushing and styling will result in your hairline being yanked and pulled back, damaging your edges. I generally try to avoid weaves because I find that my edges suffer more and I feel I have less control over what happens to them than when I have braids. If you do opt for weaves have your braider do the front braid with more care, it should not be too tight.Weaves have been known to cause traction alopecia which is a condition caused by pulling force being applied to the hair.

For those that may be suffering from thinning edges I found these articles as I researched this topic and feel they will be the most helpful;

http://blackgirllonghair.com/2012/02/8-reasons-you-have-thinning-edges/

http://blackgirllonghair.com/2012/08/7-tips-for-dealing-with-a-sensitive-hairline/

http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/super-kinky/repairing-thin-edges?utm_source=curlynikki.com&utm_medium=CNArticlePost&utm_term=bloggers&utm_content=CN&utm_campaign=CN

http://nappilynigeriangirl.blogspot.com/2012/12/nappy-q-receding-hairline-breakage-of.html (I’d skip the sulphur though)

http://blackgirllonghair.com/2011/10/how-i-helped-my-mom-regrow-her-edges-in-5-months/

A number of people swear by castor oil massages done everyday to stimulate growth, my sister swears by T444z which has worked for her and I can vouch for the ingredients which are all natural with shea butter as a base. Rosemary oil is great as it stimulates growth and blood circulation (you can make your own rosemary oil by following the recipe at the end). As you grow your edges back be mindful of what works and doesn’t work for you, realise that you must be patient and do everything you can to protect your edges with all you’ve got.

I will generally do a protective style with some sort of extension 2-3 times a year. I usually braid my hair in the winter and again in December when work gets crazy and I don’t have much time to give my hair the care that it needs. The rest of the year I guard my edges jealously by being gentle on them and don’t allow any style no matter how pretty derail me from protecting all parts of my hair, edges included!!!

Rosemary oil

2-3 tablespoons of dried rosemary

1 cup Extra Virgin Oilve oil or avocado oil

Place the rosemary in a cup of extra virgin olive oil or organic avocado oil. Heat gently in a microwave for 3 mins. Allow to cool and stand for 3-4 days. Strain the rosemary out and use to massage edges and scalp.

Dear ZedHair,

My hair is dry, prone to breakage and very difficult to comb. What can I do to make it soft? 

The key to softer natural hair is an effective moisturising routine. Think of your natural hair like a leaf, when it is attached to the tree it has moisture and is soft; on the other hand a fallen leaf is dry and easily crushed.

Source

Here are 4 simple things that you can do to keep your hair soft:

• Spritz and Seal

Get into the habit of using a spray bottle to add water to your hair in between washes and be sure to apply an oil or butter on your damp hair to seal in the moisture. You can add honey, aloe vera or glycerin to the water in the spray bottle to increase the ability of your hair to absorb the moisture; depending on how dry your hair is you may need to spritz every day or every few days.

Spray bottles are available in supermarkets and good beauty supply stores.

• Condition your hair

Conditioning adds moisture as well as other much needed nutrients to the hair. A good conditioning treatment will leave your hair soft and malleable as it improves elasticity. The more elasticity your hair has the less likely it is to break. Spritzing the hair is a great way to moisturise but what conditioning does is increase your hair’s ability to retain that moisture.

Natural ladies are notorious for sneaking into the kitchen for their hair products.

• Use less direct heat

Heat saps the hair of moisture and can leave it dry, unfortunately, most hairdressers believe that the only way to manage natural hair is to blow dry it. The combination of direct heat and rough combing not only sucks the moisture out of the hair, it can damage the cuticle and make you less likely to be able to retain moisture. If you must use heat look for a good heat protectant and try not to hold your blow dryer on one area of your hair for a long amount of time.

• Ditch the cotton

Most of us use cotton bedding and towels. Cotton is highly effective at absorbing moisture. Your night time routine is just as important as how you treat your hair during the day. Opt for silk or satin scarves, bonnets or pillowcases which are smoother and less absorbent to ensure you wake up with soft tresses and less tangles. Try drying your hair with a T shirt rather than a towel and instead of rubbing it dry just wrap the T shirt around the hair for a few minutes before applying your leave in conditioner and sealant.

There are other ways to keep your hair moisturised such as protective styling, limiting the use of mineral oil and silicones or reducing the use of shampoos that contain sulphates but these 4 are simple and effective.

Do you have a question about caring for your natural hair? Send a message to mwanabibi@zedhair.com

The April ZedHair workshop was all about styling natural hair for the workshop. It was highly interactive and we were able to discuss some of the underlying reasons that lead people to presume that natural hair is unprofessional. We had demonstrations of hairstyles for varied lengths of hair and a motivational talk by Janice Matwi of Corporate Heelz.  Look out for announcements of future events on our Facebook page and on Twitter.

The workshop took place at Mwatusanga Cafe on Chindo Road in Woodlands, Lusaka

Masuka showed us one of her favourite looks for the office; the Duku

Janice Matwi of Corporate Heelz gave a motivational talk.

Masuka demonstrates a textured style created from a twist out.

Mwanabibi showing how she refreshes her hair by spritzing with water before styling.

Nefuno showed us how she uses bantu knots to style shorter hair.

Nefuno unravelled her bantu knots to demonstrate a number of styles.

Sampa styled one lucky attendees hair.

The finished product. Cinnabuns styled by Sampa.

The ladies did a spot of shopping after the workshop.

We had many oils and hair tools on sale.

The ZedHair team on the day; Mwanabibi, Masuka and Sampa.

Photography by Hudson Chirwa

Written by Brandi a ZedHair contributor and natural hair blogger at Soul Hair 

Are you having a hair breakage crisis? Do you know how to tell if your hair is actually breaking? And do you know how to remedy the problem? Well this post is for you!

First of all, what is breakage and how is it different from shedding?

Shedding:  shed hair is hair that has reached the end of its growing cycle and naturally falls from the scalp along with its tiny, white “root” attached. This is not the actual hair root that is secured deeply within your scalp, but it is the bulb root or base of the hair strand found on the scalp-originating end. Shed hairs tend to be longer than broken hairs. According to research, the average person sheds 50-100 hairs a day.

Breaking: this is hair that has been forced to break due to mishandling, dryness or chemicals. Broken hairs usually start by splitting which eventually leads to breakage. This is why you are often told to trim your split ends since they will break eventually.

Causes of breakage and the solutions:

There are numerous reasons for breakage, below are the main ones. If the cause is not mechanical or chemical, it may be a health issue. Analyse what you do to your hair regularly to determine which causes may apply.

• Over manipulation: do you constantly put your hair into styles that require lots of manipulation? i.e combing, twisting etc. This can cause breakage because you are constantly handling your hair and putting pressure on the hair strands. The more you let it be, the less the chance of breakage. Opt for protective styles that your hair can hold for 3 to 4 days at a time or simply braid, weave or wig it for a few weeks at a time. Be careful how the braids and weaves are done though because badly done weaves and braids can actually cause breakage too.

• Over use of heat: During my relaxed hair days, I bought a new flat iron and went on a flat ironing spree. I proceeded to see my hair visibly reduce in length over a month long period. Don’t use heat on hair often and when you do, try to use lower temperatures to minimise the damage heat can cause. In addition, try and use heat protectant sprays to offer some protection to your hair.

• Lack of moisture: If your hair is dry, the strands will be brittle and break at the slightest manipulation. Make sure to moisturize your hair regularly. Be mindful of the types of products you are using too, some can cause dryness. Natural non toxic products are better for moisture rentention. For example, I use a shampoo by Earthsapp (available in Spar) that has no sulphates, parabens, bad alcohols and glycols.

• Lack of protein: If your hair lacks protein, it lacks strength and again will break easily. Do regular protein treatments to keep your hair strong. Read more on protein and moisture balance here.

• Using the wrong tools: If you use combs on your hair, they should be wide tooth combs. Smaller combs will get stuck in your hair and cause breakage. Brushes are also no good. Some brushes that are specially made for curly hair work for some e.g. Denman brush. However, everything else won’t do your hair any favors. Use your fingers or wide teeth combs for detangling. Styling can also be done with your fingers depending on how well stretched your hair is.

• Using the wrong detangling method: All combing or detangling should be done from tip down to root. Hair that is beyond 5-6 inches long will have to be done in sections. Due to the density of the curls or kinks of natural hair, you cannot expect to put a comb in at the root and have it come out at the tip without breaking a lot of hair along the way and making you cry out in pain. Be gentle, and go from tip to root. After each section is done, twist it and move to the next. Personally I only need to do this once a week and the rest of the week, my fingers are sufficient. Some naturals only detangle once a month. Figure out what works for you.

• Detangling or styling when hair is very wet or dry: All manipulation should only happen when the hair has some kind of lubricant like oil, hair butter or conditioner on it. I only detangle after applying moisturizer and oil/shea butter. Some choose to do their detangling when the hair has conditioner. In the morning, I only style my hair after it has been generously sprayed. The moisture makes my hair more flexible for styling.

• Dyeing hair then not caring for it: dyed hair needs extra care in comparison to hair that is not. If you are not ready to go the extra mile after dyeing it, don’t do it. I had a lot of breakage after dyeing my hair and it was only after I cut away the dyed ends that I began to retain length again. If you insist on dyeing, try and use natural dyes like henna.

At the end of the day, there always will be some form of breakage but you can minimise it. The best way to stop excessive breakage in it’s tracks is to cut off the breaking ends and start afresh, being careful not to make the same mistakes again. Trim regularly as needed to prevent split ends from becoming damaged and broken and you will see yourself begin to retain length.

ZedHair African Black Soap

African Black Soap is popular for use on the face and body because it is so gentle, effective against acne and helps to get rid of blemishes, but did you know that it can also be used to wash your hair? The ingredients in the soap mean that it is both cleansing and conditioning unlike many commercial shampoos. You can use the soap as it is or make your own shampoo. The great thing is that it cuts down on wash day because there is no real need for a pre poo. Here are some simple recipes for you to try.

African Black Soap- Honey Shampoo

4 Tablespoons African Black Soap

1 Cup of water

2 Teaspoons of Honey

3 Teaspoons Grapeseed Oil

1. Cut the soap into shavings so that it dissolves easily.
2. Place the shaving and other ingredients in an applicator or spray bottle.
3. Add warm water to the mixture.
4. Shake well until soap is fully dissolved and use as you would normal shampoo.

*Honey makes this mixture even more moisturising as it is great for drawing moisture into the hair.  The Grapeseed oil provides great slip for de-tangling without weighing down the hair too much as it is a very light oil.

African Black Soap- Aloe Vera Shampoo

2 Tablespoons African Black Soap

3/4 Cup of water

1/4 Cup Aloe Vera Juice

2 Teaspoons Avocado Oil

A few drops of Peppermint Essential Oil

1. Cut the soap into shavings and place it in an applicator or spray bottle.
2. Add the rest of the ingredients followed by warm water.
3. Shake well until soap is fully dissolved and use as you would normal shampoo.

*The Aloe Vera Juice in this mixture helps to lower the pH of the soap and leave the hair smoother. Avocado oil contains ceramides that help to alleviate dry hair. The peppermint oil not only makes this mixture smell divine it also leaves the scalp feeling tingly clean.

African Black Soap – Glycerin Shampoo

1 Cup of water

1 Tablespoon of Glycerin

5 drops of Vitamin E Oil

1 Teaspoon of Jojoba Oil

A few drops of Rosemary Oil

1. Cut the soap into shavings and place it in an applicator or spray bottle.
2. Add the rest of the ingredients followed by warm water.
3. Shake well until soap is fully dissolved and use as you would normal shampoo.

*This mixture is great for achieving soft hair. Glycerin not only draws moisture into the hair it also leaves it incredibly soft. Vitamin E Oil smooths and conditions the hair. Jojoba oil is a very light oil which is closest to the hair sebum it also leaves hair supple and smooth. Rosemary essential oil helps to alleviate dry hair conditions.

I have found African Black Soap Shampoo particularly useful when I have protective styles such as braids or cornrows as it conditions the hair without having to use a thick store bought conditioner that may be more difficult to rinse out.

ZedHair African Black Soap is available to buy in Lusaka at Jubilee Chemist Cairo Road and Kabulonga branches, Lush Living, Crossroads Mall and Supreme Pharmacy in Northmead.

Yes, it’s true, we’ve featured le coil on ZedHair.com, but it’s definitely a site worth revisiting, you can take my word for it. Besides, 3 years away is much too long for the awesomeness of le coil. Le coil has amazing street style natural hair pictures and throw in a few editorials to keep us on our toes. Epic awesomeness.

How I love Shingai Shoniwa, let me count the ways– (also featured here)

Ajak Deng (previously featured on Zedhair here)

Alexander McQueen for Givenchy

Even Kate Spade is getting in on Fro-action!

South African street style represented!

All photographs courtesy of le coil

Flat twist front, roll tuck pin in the back

Introduce yourself!

Hey my name is Monde, born and raised in Zambia, currently living in the USA.

 Why did you make the decision to go natural?

I was tired of getting chemically burned each time I had to retouch my hair. I was also concerned about the harsh chemicals having some long term effects on my body so I called it quits.

 When did you decide to go natural?

I decided to go natural after I got married in 2011. I admit I wasn’t brave enough to Big Chop so I transitioned till September 2012 when I couldn’t deal with two textures any more..chop chop off the hair went.

What has been your experience having natural hair so far?How would you describe your texture?

I would describe my hair texture as the 4’s A, B and C and it’s been a challenging but a manageable journey. I definitely have highs and lows relearning how to manage my hair, but I am totally thankful to online media like Google, YouTube and Facebook, which provide a lot of information and forums that guide you through the journey.

Afro from Big Chop to 1 Year

What is your hair regimen?

 I am in search of simplicity and hope I can find it soon, but in the mean time. I try to wash or cowash  my hair every week unless I am in a protective style.

Step 1. Is prepoo with coconut oil a day before

Step 2. Is clarify or cowash next day after pre poo. This is the time I choose to detangle my hair– Products of choice are Bentonite Clay, black soap, shikakai Soap, As I am coconut Co Wash and Tresseme Naturals Conditioner (not all at the same time)

Step 3..Is Deep condition after clarifying. This could be 30 min with a heat cap or just a shower cap. Products of choice, Tresseme Naturals Conditioner, SheaMoisture coconut hibiscus curl enhancing smoothie or Anti Breakage Mask
Step 4. Rinse out conditioner and a final rinse of Dilute Apple Cider Vinegar

Step 5. Is apply Leave in conditioner and seal with oil. I am still in search of my perfect leave in and my preferred sealant is Shea butter.

Step 6 Is style….

Flat twist out Mo Hawk with cornrow in the back

Any future plans/dreams for your hair? 

 Added to healthy hair I would love to see how long my hair can grow. I know black women can grow their hair long, but I would love to see it on my own hair. So length is as important to me as much as the health of my hair.

Any advice to those considering going natural?

 I say do it.  Get to know and embrace your hair and enjoy the journey. Its not easy, but it’s a part of you. I think if you truly love something you do the best for it, and that should include your hair of course.

Is there a blog/webpage where we can find you?

I am on Instagram as mamutumba which is a glimpse of my personal life and I have a YouTube Channel Monde4u which is dedicated to hair. I started it as a way to challenge my styling creativity and  keep visuals of it. It is not focused  strictly on natural hair but it may grow to that in the future.  Since I really didn’t have much expectation from the channel, the response has been awesome knowing there are people watching, liking and subscribing.

Textured Afro, with flat twist band in the front

Tension Method Blow dry, Combed into an afro

Two Flat twist on the front and roll tuck and pin the back

Curlformer curls front bang and Roll Tuck Pin Back

5 Fikuti before and after

Many of us are familiar with African threading or “cotton”. In Zambia its a hairstyle mainly worn by school children but it has also become a means of stretching the hair that many of us in the natural hair community use to avoid the use of heat which can be damaging. I tried corkscrew African threading last year and loved it. I was inspired to try African threading again after seeing an attendee at one of our workshops.

The corkscrew African threading that I tried last year.

An attendee at one of our workshops who inspired me to try this style.

I used normal thread and have been asked a few times if they are dreadlocks.

The hairstyle was done over two days.

What do you think? Would you try African threading?